Handlebar width is one of the cheapest, quickest ways to change how a mountain bike feels. Too narrow and the bike can feel twitchy and unstable; too wide and you can feel stretched out, slow to turn and prone to clipping trees. This MTB handlebar width guide covers how to choose the right width for you and how to cut your bars down safely if you need to.
Why MTB handlebar width matters
Wider bars give you more leverage over the front wheel. That makes the bike feel calmer at speed and helps you hold a line through rough ground. They also open up your chest and shoulders, which many riders find more comfortable when descending. The trade-off is that very wide bars slow down steering, can feel awkward on tight switchbacks, and are more likely to catch on trees and gateposts.
Narrower bars do the opposite: quicker steering, easier in tight woods, but less leverage when things get rough. There's no single correct number. The right MTB handlebar width depends on your body, your bike and the trails you ride.
How wide should MTB handlebars be?
Most modern trail, enduro and downhill bars are sold wide, often around 780–800 mm, so riders can cut them to suit. Rather than relying on a formula, use these factors as a guide:
- Your shoulder width and height. Broader, taller riders usually feel at home on wider bars. Smaller riders often prefer to go narrower.
- Your riding. Fast, open, rough descents tend to favour wider bars. Tight, twisty woodland trails can favour narrower ones.
- Your stem length. Shorter stems and wider bars often go together: a shorter stem quickens the steering and a wider bar calms it down, so the pair balance each other. See our MTB stem length guide for more on this.
- Comfort. If your wrists, shoulders or elbows feel strained, or you feel stretched out over the front, your bars may be too wide.
A simple test: get into your attack position, with your elbows bent and out and your chest low. Your hands should fall naturally at the grips without you having to reach outwards or squeeze your arms in.
The GCS handlebar: 800 mm with cut marks
Our GCS handlebars come at 800 mm wide, with marks that let you cut them down to as narrow as 720 mm. They're available with 20 mm or 40 mm rise and in 31.8 mm or 35 mm clamp, all with 7° backsweep and 5° upsweep. They're certified to EFBE TRI-TEST® GR, the gravity standard for freeride and downhill.
Starting wide and trimming gradually is the best approach. You can always take more off, but you can't put it back.
Try before you cut
Before reaching for a saw, test a narrower width without removing any material:
- Remove your grips (undo the lock-ring bolts), then slide the brake and shifter controls inward by the same amount on each side, for example 10 mm per side. Cut, then refit the grips to the new bar end.
- Ride a familiar trail and notice how the steering, stability and comfort change.
- Repeat in small steps until you find a width that feels right.
This takes a few rides, but it's far better than cutting too much at once.
How to cut your MTB handlebars
If you've decided on a narrower width, here's how to cut your bars safely. If you're not confident, ask a bike shop to do it.
- Measure and mark. Decide how much to remove and split it evenly between both sides. Use the marks on the bar where provided and never cut narrower than the minimum width the manufacturer allows. On GCS bars, that's 720 mm.
- Double-check. Measure from the centre of the bar outwards on each side so both ends match.
- Use the right tools. A pipe cutter is the best tool for the job and gives a cleaner, squarer cut than a saw. Use one with a sharp wheel suitable for aluminium, cut slowly, and lightly deburr the edge afterwards. If you use a saw instead, a fine-toothed hacksaw with a cutting guide is the best option.
- Cut slowly and squarely. Whichever tool you use, take your time and keep the cut square to the bar.
- Deburr. Smooth the cut edge inside and out with a file or fine abrasive paper. Sharp edges can damage grips and bar-end plugs.
- Refit and check. Reinstall grips, brakes and shifters, set the bar roll, centre the bar in the stem and tighten all bolts to the torque specified by the manufacturer. PEMBREE recommends 9 Nm for both the steerer clamp bolts and the faceplate bolts on the GCS stem.
Always fit bar-end plugs or lock-on grips with end caps. They protect the bar end and your hands in a crash.
Rise and clamp size
Width is only one part of bar fit. Rise changes how high your hands sit: a 40 mm rise gives a taller front end, while a 20 mm rise keeps it lower. Clamp diameter must match your stem. Our 31.8 vs 35mm handlebar clamp guide explains the difference. The GCS stem comes in both clamp sizes.
Frequently asked questions
How wide should my MTB handlebars be?
It depends on your size, your bike and your trails. Many riders end up somewhere between 720 mm and 800 mm. Start wide and narrow down in small steps until the bike feels stable but still easy to steer.
Can I cut my handlebars?
Most alloy MTB bars can be cut, but only within the manufacturer's limits. GCS bars are 800 mm and can be cut down to 720 mm using the marks on the bar.
How much should I cut off at once?
Small amounts. Remove the grips and slide your controls in first to test the width, then cut evenly from both sides, for example 10 mm per side at a time.
Do wider bars need a shorter stem?
Not always, but they often go together. A shorter stem quickens the steering and a wider bar calms it down, so together they give a stable but responsive feel that suits descending.
What tools do I need to cut handlebars?
A fine-toothed hacksaw, a cutting guide, a tape measure, a marker and a file or abrasive paper to deburr the cut.
Explore the GCS 800 mm handlebars.
31.8 vs 35mm handlebar clamp: which should you choose?